A secluded, romantic hut. Not overrun by tourists. Only accessible on foot. Excellent food and charming hosts. Where can you still find this? At the Schönwetterhütte in the Ennstal valley.
Pure enjoyment in Styria's Ennstal valley
You may have already read about the Schönwetterhütte on my blog, in the blog post Yoga in the Alps. But because it was so great there, and because the hut and the hike are simply brilliant, I would like to dedicate a separate report to both.
Getting there:
The Schönwetterhütte is easy to find with a navigation system. Enter the address ‘Großsölk 85’ and follow the instructions. Großsölk is a mountain road that winds steeply up the mountain. However, you do not drive all the way to the destination specified by the navigation system, but park your car in a clearly signposted car park. From here, only the hut owners are allowed to continue driving. For us visitors, it's time to strap on our rucksacks and set off.
The walking time given here by the Alpine Club is very generously calculated. At a brisk pace, it takes three quarters of an hour, and the path is well signposted and impossible to miss.
Arrival at the Schönwetter Hut
Even though the route is fairly easy to walk, you still have to catch your breath a little. This makes it all the more enjoyable to stretch out on the terrace and enjoy the magnificent view of the Dachstein. The welcome is surprisingly warm. The hut owners, Heidi and Manfred Brugger, and their family immediately make you feel at home.
Stay overnight? Definitely!
One thing is certain – visiting the Schönwetterhütte only on the way to Gumpeneck is almost a bit too little. Planning an overnight stay is more than worth it. Not only can you enjoy the fantastic sunset, but you can also simply spend more relaxing time here.
The food is excellent. Just thinking about the tender lamb and juicy roast pork makes my mouth water. Incidentally, the meat, bacon and ham are produced in-house, as there is a master butcher in the family. The Styrian cheese should also definitely be tried in the form of cheese gnocchi, cheese dumplings or Styrian doughnuts, as it is a typical speciality of the region.
Incidentally, the Schönwetterhütte does not have any rooms, but it does have a nice little dormitory that can accommodate up to 16 people. If you are not one of those lucky people who can sleep anywhere, you should definitely bring earplugs with you. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep very well, but that wasn't because of the beds, because sleeping well is generally not my thing, no matter where I am.
However, any poor sleep is immediately forgotten when you step outside the hut early in the morning, breathe in the cool, fresh mountain air and enjoy the beautiful Dachstein panorama again to the sound of cowbells.
The greatest sight there is, is the world. Take a look at it.
Kurt Tucholsky
Hike to the Gumpeneck
Now, I don't just go hiking to earn my hearty dinner, but because I actually love it. Panting and sweating included. Looking up at a mountain from below with the question in the back of my mind, ‘Why am I doing this to myself?’, working my way up and admiring the panorama at the summit cross, having forgotten all the effort, is one of the most beautiful things ever.
A hike from Schönwetter hut to Gumpeneck
Ascent: approx. 2 to 2.5 hours
Descent: approx. 1.5 hours
Elevation difference: 780 metres
Paths: alpine paths, steps, rocky paths. ‘Red’ hike
The climb begins directly behind the Schönwetterhütte, and it immediately becomes quite steep as it ascends the side of the mountain pasture. In about 20 to 25 minutes, you will reach the Gumpenalm. Here, there is a hut where you can refill your water bottles – after that, you will need to make do with what you have brought with you.
After a short, somewhat easier section, it's back to steep and strenuous climbing over natural steps. As exhausting as it is, at least you gain altitude quickly, even if the Gumpeneck towering above me looks completely impregnable.
But now it's time for some leisurely hiking. The trail continues with gentle ups and downs until it reaches the foot of the mountain. To our left, the Gumpenalm spreads out below us, while to our right, the mountain drops steeply away, opening up a magnificent panorama of the valleys and mountains of Upper Styria.
The flank of the Gumpeneck now lies before me. It's time to grit my teeth, as it's going to be steep and strenuous again, but at least it's fairly easy to walk. I can't manage it without taking a few short breaks to catch my breath, as my fitness level is unfortunately poor. Nevertheless, the summit is soon reached. A 360° panorama and wonderful air are the ultimate reward for the climb.
Can you ever really be ready to leave this wonderful place? Well, at some point you have to go back. After the same descent down the mountainside, I turn right at the fork and take the path via the Gumpenalm, which is really very easy to walk. The descent is quite strenuous on the thighs, but we are soon back on the terrace of the Schönwetterhütte, where a well-deserved reward in the form of drinks, food and homemade Zirb'n awaits us.
An extra trip that is well worth it
Within sight of the Schönwetter hut is the Zefferer family's hut, which you simply must visit. Not only does it offer an even more beautiful view from its small terrace, where guests are served, but delicacies made from alpine milk are also freshly produced there every day. The hut owner uses the milk milked in the morning to produce refreshing buttermilk, creamy farm butter and, above all, the famous Steiererkas cheese.
Admittedly, it's not to everyone's taste. I really like it, but only when it's ready to eat. I didn't take any home with me, as I value the lovely smell in my kitchen too much. But real fans can get the homemade original here. Otherwise, you can just make yourself comfortable on the small terrace with a cool drink and enjoy the mountain view before heading home again.
By the way:
There is virtually no telephone or internet receptionat the Schönwetterhütte and above.
True to the motto ‘We have no Wi-Fi. Talk to each other!’
