Finally, THE article about Kuala Lumpur! I always say that the best thing about travelling is the food and drink, and after two non-gastronomic articles about Kuala Lumpur, everyone is asking: So where's the food?
Anwer: here. Finally.
However, you will find less Malaysian food below than you might expect. As much as I enjoy immersing myself in regional cuisines, the culinary highlights of a multicultural city are just as tempting.
In addition to excellent cuisine from a wide variety of cuisines, Kuala Lumpur has one thing in particular to offer: rooftop bars. With so many high-rise buildings, you can imagine that there is one fantastic rooftop bar after another here. I visited two great locations and tested the quality of their margaritas.
Truly authentic Indian cuisine
Kuala Lumpur has a very large Indian community, and the range of Indian food on offer is correspondingly large. Above all, it is much cheaper here than in Phuket, where Indian food is significantly more expensive than Thai food.
So, on my first evening in Kuala Lumpur, when I went out in search of a good dinner, I ended up at Nasi Kandar Pelita in KLCC (Kuala Lumpur City Centre). Here, you can enjoy excellent Indian food in a restaurant with the charm of an unrenovated train station concourse and curt waiters. So, if you're looking for a romantic dinner, this isn't the place for you, but if you want good food at a reasonable price, this is the place to be. My chicken curry and naan bread with three different dips were spicy, excellent and very filling.
Ordered:
Chicken Curry
Naan Bread
One bottle of drinking water
Paid: MYR 18,– (about EUR 3,90 in March 2019)
Address: 149 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur 50450


A hearty breakfast in KLCC
I found that it's not that easy to find a nice place to have breakfast in KLCC. At least not online. When you actually walk through the streets, you pass a few open, mostly simple Malaysian restaurants. On the way and while waiting for my appointment at the Thai embassy to extend my visa, I treated myself to a very nice breakfast, somewhat hidden away (navigation via Google Maps recommended) in the middle of the city centre.
The Ra.Ft Cafe Bistro is a very nice and (by Malaysian standards, definitely not by ours) high-priced restaurant in a business high-rise building and offers a very tempting breakfast menu. The interior is airy, modern and chic, the waiters are attentive and excellently trained, and the jazzy music in the background invites you to linger. My expectations regarding the quality of the breakfast were fully met, and I could not have wished for a better taste at home in Austria. The excellent cappuccino is also a real highlight in the morning.
Ordered:
Ra.Ft Tower (smoked salmon and poached egg on toast with avocado cream, served with rocket salad)
Cappuccino
Freshly squeezed orange juice
Paid: MYR 51,– (about EUR 11,10 in March 2019)
Address: Unit G1, Ground Floor, Binjai 8 Premium Soho 2 Lorong Binjai, 50450, Ampang, Kuala Lumpur



Drinking where the helicopters land
If you love rooftop bars, you'll feel right at home in Kuala Lumpur. Similar sensational locations in Austria or Germany would probably have practically unaffordable prices – by Malaysian standards, this also applies to these bars, but fortunately not for us.
Are you looking for a truly extraordinary place to enjoy a sundowner in Kuala Lumpur? Then you definitely need to check out the cool Heli Lounge Bar. The name says it all. During the day, the platform at the top of the Menara KH skyscraper is an active helicopter landing pad. In the evening, tables, chairs and a mobile bar are brought up, and the large asphalt platform is transformed into a rimless cocktail bar with an unobstructed 360-degree open-air view of the whole of Kuala Lumpur.
I have read, but cannot confirm, that normal street wear is only accepted until 9 p.m. After that, the dress code is supposed to be smart casual. However, as I recommend enjoying this cocktail bar at sunset, you can still come dressed in your everyday clothes and chill out.
The Heli Lounge Bar is no longer necessarily an insider tip. So if you want a good spot, you should be there right on time when it opens at 5 p.m. Just take the lift to the top floor of the Menara KH Tower. You'll end up in the ‘real’ bar, which is a cool cocktail bar with a great view. The ‘admission fee’ to the helicopter platform is a cocktail, which you order and pay for at the bar and are then handed. With a full glass and appropriate caution, you then go up two floors to the open-air bar. All further drinks (and small snacks) can then be ordered directly on the platform.
Ordered: One classic margarita and one strawberry margarita each
Paid: Price per cocktail between MYR 30 and MYR 35 (approx. between EUR 6.50 and EUR 7.60 in March 2019)
Address: 34 Menara KH, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Bukit Bintang, 50450, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur



Street food, at least sort of
Anyone familiar with street food markets in Asia knows that they are very different from those that have become so popular in Europe in recent years. Loud, colourful, crazy, crowded and cheap. In contrast, here we have chic food trucks driving around selling expensive ‘street food’ at rather steep prices.
The Tapak Urban Street Dining street food market in the heart of KLCC, close to the Petronas Towers, is one such European street food market. Here, food trucks are arranged in a large circle, with numerous tables and benches in the middle where visitors can enjoy the food they have just purchased. This is the perfect place for visitors to Kuala Lumpur who are not quite comfortable with the hustle and bustle of authentic Asian street food stalls. Those looking for more authenticity will probably be disappointed. The selection is correspondingly multicultural, offering everything from burgers and hot dogs to classic Malaysian rice dishes such as nasi goreng.
It was really cool that a really good band started playing around 8 p.m. They created a great atmosphere, and I stayed there extra long just to listen to them play.
Ordered:
Malaysian rice dish with meat
Quesadillas with chicken
Paid:
Rice dish: MYR 6,- (approx. EUR 1.30 in March 2019)
Quesadilla: MYR 13,- (approx. EUR 2.80 in March 2019)
Address: Persiaran Hampshire, off, Jalan Ampang, Hampshire Park, 50450 Kuala Lumpur





For a boost before or during shopping
Located in a completely different area, namely southwest of Negara Park in Bangsar, there are two nice shopping centres for those who don't want to make the pilgrimage to the big luxury temples. In addition to well-known brands such as Zara, Mango and Co., there are also some (affordable) shops offering high-quality fashion at normal prices.
The Nutmeg Cafe in Bangsar Village II is the ideal place to start your shopping day or take a break while shopping. I rushed here by Grab Car after an early visit to the Theang Hou Temple. A well-deserved breakfast, olé! A delicious cappuccino, freshly squeezed juice and grainy porridge restored my energy for further sightseeing tours.
Ordered:
Cappuccino
Freshly squeezed orange juice
Porridge
Paid: MYR 49,– (approx. EUR 10,60 in March 2019)
Address: UGF-8A, Bangsar Village II 2, 2, Jalan Telawi 1, Bangsar Baru, 59100 Kuala Lumpur



A real British teatime
I arrived with completely false expectations, but left with great enthusiasm – that's how I would sum up my visit to TWG. My travel guide mentioned something about ‘..., and – of course – kueh (traditional cakes often made from glutinous rice)’ in connection with the TWG Tea restaurant. I understood that TWG Tea offers these sweets, which sounded really exciting to me because they were so unfamiliar.
It turns out that I simply didn't quite understand the context in the travel guide. But now I was standing in front of this restaurant island in the luxury shopping centre Pavilion, surrounded by Cartier, Chopard, Rolex and Co. There was no sign of Kueh, but all the more of the macarons, which I don't particularly like, in every conceivable colour and flavour, as well as hundreds of types of tea.
Well, I was already here, so why not go for a tea break?
And I was thrilled! After passing the huge macaron display and a vast selection of teas in decorative gift packaging, I stood in the open ‘guest room’ and suddenly felt like I was in an elegant tea room in London and, at the same time, completely out of place. But that's just how it was. The head waiter, a Brit of course, showed me to a nice little table and presented me with a tea and food menu. So there I sat, a non-tea-drinker, faced with a huge selection of teas and not the faintest idea which to choose. Fortunately, there was an ‘Afternoon Teas’ category, and I chose the Royal Oriental Tea because it had such a beautiful name. It turned out to be a sensational choice – tea with a very delicate orange aroma, wonderful. And of course, I couldn't sit in England without ordering a sandwich to go with my tea. Here, I chose the Royal Sandwich, which was an equally excellent choice.
Unfortunately, I was already at TWG Tea around noon. From 2 p.m. onwards, they offer teatime specials, with sandwiches and cones with clotted cream on silver étagères. Just as you would imagine. I missed out on that. But there's always next time!
Ordered:
A pot of Royal Oriental Tea
Royal Sandwich
Paid:
MYR 57,– (approx. EUR 12,40 in March 2019)
Address: Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Level 2 Lot P2.16.00 & 2.34.01, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur


The famous YOLO moment
The plan for dinner was actually to go to a (this time ‘real’) street food market. But then you're sitting in your hotel room, and you have that YOLO moment. You know, the You Only Live Once moment. Forget the street food market, and treat yourself to a wonderful evening in this amazing city!
No sooner said than done, and we quickly found the Aqua restaurant in the luxury Mandarin Oriental hotel in KLCC. We quickly changed out of our everyday clothes into something more chic and headed to the five-star hotel not far from the Petronas Towers.
I was certainly not disappointed. Just to clarify for anyone who thinks I've struck gold: no, it wasn't quite that bad. Aqua is the Mandarin Oriental's ‘affordable’ restaurant. That means instead of the elegant dining room on the top floor, you sit on level 4 in the pool restaurant. Okay, the term ‘pool restaurant’ is a bit of an understatement, but it's still true. From where I was sitting, I had a wonderful view of the surrounding skyscrapers, the pool and children splashing around enthusiastically. A few tables away, a guest was sitting in a half-open bathrobe (no, not a pretty sight). But still, it was a great atmosphere.
It quickly became apparent that my choice of street food over fine dining was a good one: it started pouring with rain. So I enjoyed a selection of three appetisers with two glasses of Italian white wine and savoured the good life.
Ordered:
Two glasses of Italian white wine
A small bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water
Edamame (steamed soy beans)
Signature Gyoza
Vietnamese Paper Rolls
Paid:
MYR 200,- (approx. EUR 43.40 in March 2019, service charge included)
Address: Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur



City view for romantics
The second rooftop cocktail bar I chose in Kuala Lumpur was the Luna Bar at the Pacific Regency Suites Hotel, directly opposite the KL Tower. After an employee in livery opens the door for you, he escorts you to the lift and sends you to the top floor of the high-rise building. At the top, you will find the pool area, which transforms into a fantastic bar in the evening. Here, you can sit romantically around the pool in glass-enclosed booths with a view of the magnificent city and sip excellent cocktails. There is a large stage directly adjacent to the pool, so I assume that there are sometimes lively parties here.
Addendum (August 2025): Es scheint, als wäre die Bar geschlossen.
Ordered:
Classic margarita(s)
Paid: Approximately MYR 35,- per cocktail (approx. EUR 7.60 in March 2019, service charge included)
Address: Pacific Regency Suites, KH Tower, Jalan Puncak, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Kuala Lumpur



Street food, now really
If you want to immerse yourself in Malaysian food and be the only tourist far and wide, you must visit Imbi Market. This food hall is located on the ground floor of a large building. Dozens of food stalls offer typical Malaysian dishes here. I was definitely a rather unusual sight.
So, what do people eat for breakfast in Malaysia? Just like in Thailand, breakfast here doesn't really consist of foods that are specific to this time of day. So I simply went by the name of the dish and ordered a plate of nasi lemak with egg. This turned out to be a serving of coconut rice topped with a fried egg, cucumber slices and a few spoonfuls of spicy sauce. Certainly not the most common breakfast for our European stomachs, but good and filling. Just around the corner, I found a large cup of refreshing, freshly squeezed cucumber-apple-celery juice.
Ordered:
A plate of nasi lemak
A cup of cucumber-apple-celery juice
Paid:
Nasi lemak: MYR 3,– (approx. EUR 0,65 in March 2019)
Juice: MYR 5,– (approx. EUR 1,10 in March 2019)
Address: Jalan Kijang, Pudu, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur


Pure hipster breakfast feeling
While searching for Feeka Coffee Roasters, I stumbled upon the coolest neighbourhood in Kuala Lumpur – unfortunately on the very last day before my departure. Here, one cool restaurant and one laid-back bar follow another, with everything from small hostels to five-star hotels in between.
I searched the area thoroughly, but I just couldn't find Feeka. After a good quarter of an hour and a few beads of sweat, I realised that Google Maps was right after all – Feeka is simply one of those places that is too cool to have a sign with its name on it.
When you walk into the café, you feel like you've been transported to Berlin – the cafés there are just as cool, just as hipster, just as casual as here. I was thrilled. As soon as you enter the room, you are greeted by a chorus of ‘Good morning’ from the wait staff.
I took a seat and chose from the menu, but orders are placed and paid for at the counter.
And I'll keep it short: I was thrilled. If there was a restaurant exactly like this one near my home, I would have found my regular breakfast spot once and for all. Not only was the atmosphere great, the waiters all spoke excellent English, and the food and coffee were simply top-notch. For anyone who wants to enjoy a ‘proper’ breakfast (for us) in Kuala Lumpur: come here, you definitely won't be disappointed!
Ordered:
Cappuccino
Freshly squeezed orange juice
Salmon Egg Bénédict
Paid:
MYR 49,– (approx. EUR 10,60 in March 2019)
Address: 19, Jalan Mesui, Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur



And now I want your tips
Have you ever been to Kuala Lumpur and perhaps have some great tips for restaurants, bars, eateries and markets? Then please share them with us 🙂
Mhmm, da hört sich alles sehr einladend an! Besonders der TWG Tearoom, wir lieben diesen Tee! Besonders den Silver Moon Green Tea, unbedingt mal kosten! Glg