Mystical Tanner Moor

The largest mountain pine bog in Austria in the north-eastern Mühlviertel region: While searching for a topic for a new blog post, I stumbled across the Mühlviertel experience website My4tl and the Natura 2000 protected area Tanner Moor at the far end of the world. A beautiful moor lake and a moor hiking trail awaited me. And to top it all off, I wanted to experience Tanner Moor at sunrise. So, at 4:15 in the morning, I packed my sleepy dog into the boot and drove to the Mühlviertel region, over 900 metres above sea level.

The mystical world of the moor

Completely alone in the open countryside, I arrive at the car park of Tanner Moor. A rather spacious gravel area tells me that quite a few visitors are expected here on nice summer days. Directly below the car park is a small hut with a terrace where you can eat and drink. I wouldn't mind a cup of hot coffee at 5:50 in the morning when it's 15 degrees outside, but of course the shutters are still firmly closed at this time of day.

The dog, now very lively, and I walk the few steps from the car park to the moor lake. The sun is just rising behind the clouds, but unfortunately there is no sign of the red sunrise I had hoped for. A group of ducks swim enthusiastically across the lake towards me. They are obviously expecting food from visitors and are ruining my ‘mirror lake’ picture. Never mind. I take my photos at the lake and enjoy the wonderful fresh air.

Right next to the lake, I follow the signs for the Moorwanderweg trail and stroll past the lake. Swimming is permitted at your own risk, but I don't even dip my fingers in the water at this early hour and leave the field to the offended group of ducks, who have come away empty-handed.

Just beyond the lake lies a large flat plain covered with tall grasses and scattered trees. Bleached tree stumps protrude here and there from the thicket of grass.

I come to a crossroads and turn onto the moorland hiking trail. It is a pleasant hike through sparse woodland. It is completely silent except for the birds, who are complaining about the unexpected early disturbance.

Nature photographers will find plenty to enjoy here in the moor. In just a few square metres, you can find enough photo opportunities to fill an entire memory card. I, who am usually satisfied with my fairly good mobile phone camera, am considering purchasing a system camera with a macro lens for the first time. Without a camera, I would never be able to get so close to the cross spider hiding under a leaf while waiting for prey.

The further we follow the path, the wilder the landscape becomes. Again and again, we encounter sculptural tree remains, embedded in blueberry bushes and rotting away.

The landscape changes. The sparse birch forest gives way to dense mountain pine scrub, through which the moorland hiking trail winds its way. In this almost surreal setting, I think that the Icelanders, with their belief in fairies, may not be so wrong after all.

We arrive at the observation tower. I climb up carefully and enjoy a magnificent view over the treetops on all sides. Unfortunately, the light wasn't ideal for photos. Rocco waited for me at the foot of the ladder. Right in front of the observation tower are large tables for those who want to take a break here.

We continue our hike through the mountain pine forest and notice that the surroundings have suddenly changed for the third time. Now we are standing in a beautiful coniferous forest and are walking leisurely uphill on an alpine-style trail. Finally, the sun comes out and shines through the slender tree trunks.

I pass a heart made of pine cones laid out on the moss. Apparently, a visitor before me was just as enamoured with Tanner Moor as I am.

I continue through the quiet forest for a while longer before, after a good hour and a half of brisk walking, I come to a forest road that takes me back to my starting point at Rubner Pond. With one last look back, I say goodbye and resolve to come back in autumn, when I hope to find the moor shrouded in an even more mystical mist.

Back at Rubner Pond, the warm sun awaits me. The ducks already know me and don't come any closer. Rocco and I are still alone in the open countryside and enjoy the silence by the water for a moment before we make our way home. No coffee – the little snack hut doesn't open until 10 a.m.

Some information about visiting Tanner Moor

Directions: Navigation destination ‘Rubner Teich’ near Liebenau

Duration of the tour: 1.5 hours without breaks

Swimming: Yes, in Rubner Pond (moor water)

Suitable for strollers: No, lots of roots and some stones

Suitable for children: Yes, very much so, a total adventure!

Refreshments: At the Jausenhütte, open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. in good weather.

Führungen: möglich und können gebucht werden

Was noch gut ist zu wissen

Those who prefer to travel by horse rather than by car will find a spacious tethering area in the car park. A bale of hay can be purchased for 4 Euros. How cool is that! ❤️